I love how fashion amplifies the possibility of expressing individuality through looks. I think it's perfectly fine for a man to be constantly renewing his style, and also to dress in a twenty-piece capsule wardrobe for the rest of his life. Acceptance with love is the point, even when I dress as a grey mouse and even when I dress as a flashy peacock.
We don't look at the collections of the big fashion houses because we are fashion monkeys, but we sacrifice our looks on the altar of visuality, inspired by them, to make the world a more beautiful place.
Whether we are men or women...
With this in mind, I created my review on Milan Fashion Week Men's A/W 2024 collections this week.
GUCCI
Sensuality - Gucci - Elegance
Sabato De Sarno's debut menswear collection was the first big show of Milan Fashion Week. The highly anticipated line of suits carried on the style of elegance combined with light sensuality that we had already seen in the creative director's first womenswear collection, presented in September.
The men's range also reflects the stylistic diversity of the Italian streets. Soft tailoring lines, floor-length jackets, bomber jackets, tailored suits with unique strokes, colourful leather coats met with long silk ties, crystal embellishments and stylish bags, showing the masculine side of joie de vivre this time.
Photos
: Camera Nazionale Moda Italiana/Launchmetrics.com/spotlight
DSQUARED2
"BORN IN CANADA, MADE IN ITALY"
The creators of DSQUARED2 are Canadian-born Dean and Dan Caten. The twins, who live between London and Milan, presented their autumn/winter collection with an exciting transformation show in front of a snow-white backdrop, and under the spotlight of robotic cameras as well as moved by professional staff.
Twinning is nothing new on the catwalks of Milan. A few years ago, Alessandro Michele, Gucci's creative director, sent twin pairs onto the catwalk.
This time, the Canadian design duo's reinterpretation of the opportunity calls attention to the metamorphosis of dressing and, at the same time, of clothes.
In both the men's and women's sets, recycled, repurposed pieces meet freshly tailored party attire, while the styling plays ingeniously with the layering and stacking of fabrics.
In the street trend, a model steps onto the catwalk, dirty, turns into a snow-white booth, and after a few flashes, flicks and clicks, she emerges, glowing, made up, freshly tailored and flattered.
From a daytime set to a glamorous evening outfit.
The collection strives to blur the boundaries between raw and sophisticated pieces, between day and sexy evening looks, while also reinforcing the difference between the two.
With no hidden intentions, the freedom of identity and the embrace of sexuality radiate from every outfit. In the final image, the dual character of the designer twins reinforces this message.
Photos: Camera Nazionale Moda Italiana/Launchmetrics.com/spotlight
MSGM
Subway - Milan - Massimo
At Massimo Giorgetti's presentation, one of the models appeared with an unexpected accessory in hand: a piece of one of the metro's distinctive curved railings.
Not by chance was the show organised on the underground platform of the Porta Venezia metro station.
The distinctive curve of the red design element has become the main motif of the collection (as seen on the opening suit), while also representing the line that the M1 motorway cuts through the city.
The designer explores the pace of modern life through the symbol of the metro. This tempo was also represented by the models on the catwalk, sometimes with mobile phones, sometimes with goggles, immersed in the everyday mystic world of underground transport.
The colourful eclectic wardrobe is dominated by red and dark, interrupted by baby blue, pale pink and neon.
Photos: Camera Nazionale Moda Italiana/Launchmetrics.com/spotlight
DOLCE & GABBANA
Classic - Black - Gabbana
Dolce's collection was beautiful, it reminded me a bit of a subdued Saint Laurent. It was characterised by a variety of black textures, leathers, silks, furs, aristocratically arranged sequins and whites. For me, the understated sensuality of the tailored suits had both my grandfather's riding boots and Bradley Cooper's Maestro....
And I started to yearn for a local menswear brand...
Photos: Camera Nazionale Moda Italiana/Paolo Lanzi / Launchmetrics.com/spotlight
To be continued.
Our first report from the PRADA show at Milan Men's Fashion Week is available here:
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