The AW 17/18 collection of Dora Konsanszky was born of contrasts and contradictions.
On the one hand, Konsanszky drew inspiration from the abstract expressionism of the late ‘50s and its exploration of the emotions, meditation and unconscious imagination of the inner self.
Mark Rothko, Mark Tobey, Barnett Newman, and Franz Kline all had a meaningful impact on the designer. Kline’s work was especially influential in shaping Konsanszky’s vision – through the artist’s interpretation of Asian calligraphy, as well as his use of geometry derived from emotions and gestures and the way he plays with the alignment of horizontal and vertical lines.
At the same time, space explorations of the ‘50s and ‘60s informed the collection. Dora Konsanszky was inspired by NASA pictures of the solar system.
The surface of Mars, Mercury and Earth, formed by meteorites that created interesting craters, and the rich variety of petrogenesis, contributed to the collection’s ambience and vision.
Collection Beyond Controversy expresses an engagement and fascination with both the incomprehensible cosmos and the expressionism of our inner world.
The colour palette of the new collection foregoes international trends, which is a characteristic of the designer in general. Traditional black and white combination is impressively completed with the shiny confidence of amber-green and the not boastful, yet emphatic presence of silver in its futuristic richness.
Washable lamb leather and elastic silk are the main materials that simultaneously represent the treasures of the past and the innovative fabric solutions of the future. Iconic pieces have come into being as a result of creativity and playing with leather.
Fretted and hand painted jeans provide a strong denim mood. The models recall surfaces related to expressionism and rocks on planets, thus re-evaluating and reforming the conventional denim approach.
Cuts reflect Dora’s personal approach, tailoring experience and affinity for Japanese culture instead of the traditional technics. The collection consists of surprising silhouettes, still perfectly wearable and comfortable clothing with lovable little details, nevertheless all in one, it remains liberal.
The conception of Beyond Controversy is completed with the futuristic space-like jewelry, the result of a collaboration between Dora Konsanszky and Barbara Katona. The Galaxy Ring and the Flux Earcuff are made of silver, copper and eighteen carat gold and partnered with coloured resin lines.
Multifunctional bags - designed by Helga Kovacs – have innovative solutions. Drift Backpack, Stero and Phyra shoulder, referring to the main concept of the collection Beyond Controversy, bring the final looks (along with the jewels) to perfection.
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Photo: Endre Holecz, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week
